2013年9月15日星期日

June | 2011 | Labradoodle Dreams


I registered with the ALAA today.  I should hear back in 2-4 weeks.  Hopefully I get my seals!!!


This will also have all of our litter’s Registered with the ALAA!!  So, finger’s crossed that I didn’t miss anything to slow the process down!


I’ve worked hard to get here, now I can’t believe I’ve finally done it!!!




Parvo is very serious, its one of the main reason’s we limit visitors to our puppies.  It can live in the ground for years, be carried on tires, shoes and clothing if you go from one pet store or breeder’s that is infected to another’s whose not and literally wipe out an entire liter.  Take extra care when puppy shopping, change shoes when going from one place to another & in the summer months, when Parvo’s at its highest, make sure you only let your puppy out in area’s you know are safe.


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Parvovirus can be a threat for puppies at any age. It can be especially dangerous for pets that are out and about with other dogs, as it is transferred by contact with canine stools. Luckily, it almost never occurs after your dog is 14-months-old.


Even with preventative actions such as vaccinating, Parvovirus can attack. Parvo is a viral canine disease, and the virus grows in rapidly dividing cells such as the intestinal lining. It attacks and kills these cells and can lead to death. Parvo also causes a suppression of white blood cells and can infect the heart muscle. The key is to know what signs to look for and to get treatment immediately if Parvo is suspected.


Symptoms to Look For



  • Diarrhea, bloody

  • Lethargy

  • Vomiting

  • Depression

  • Pain when defecating

  • Loss of appetite

  • Fever


Treatment


1. Testing – There are tests for Parvo in the stool but results can be a false positive for those puppies recently vaccinated.


2. Going By Symptoms – If the results of the test are positive and there are symptoms present, your vet will likely treat it as Parvovirus even if your puppy was recently vaccinated.


3. Fluids – Intravenous fluid is the main treatment for Parvo. Serum and colloidal fluids are used, along with traditional fluids. The colloidal fluids appear to be mainly to credit for recovery.


4. Antibiotics – These prevent secondary bacterial infections. Antibiotics such as Amoxicillin are usually used.


5. Immunity – Strengthening your puppy’s immune system, ideally before catching Parvo but also after infection, can help him fight it. Check with your vet for ideas that correlate with his medical treatment.


The good news is that about 80% of treated puppies with Parvovirus will live. But treatment is essential. Without it, about 80% will die. If your puppy shows one or more of these symptoms for more than a week, contact your vet immediately. Better to find out his stool is loose because he ate a sock than to take a chance on Parvovirus.


http://www.dogster.com/dog-health-care/parvovirus-in-dogs




It’s Official!  Labradoodle Dreams Web-site is back up & running!! 


 Check us out!!  It’s a whole new look & theme!  And check back often for updates in Up & Coming Litters, you never know who will surprise us by coming into season early or late.  All of our dates are only estimates at this point!


 www.labradoodledreams.com


 We look forward to hearing from you!




I’m really hoping to have my new web-site up this week.  Its been down for too long!!!


I can’t wait for everyone to see It And give me your feedback! !


Lets all hope its up by Monday. I was thinking it was going to already be up, but there’s always something it seems.




You know, I often tell people I am full of useless information & really, its not ALL useless, some of it’s important, just not now, or to them.  This is one of those times.  Again, I like to read an subscribe to many Blogs, newsletters & what not to get the latest & most up to date info not only for my own knowledge, but so I can pass it onto you.  Who knows, one day you may think, ‘Oh yeah, I read that somewhere . . . . .’  because now, you need it too & it’s not so useless!  So without further a-dooo………………………….from the dogtrainingsecret.com  an article on SHAPING BEHAVIOR!  (which I’ve used & like A LOT!)


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Shaping Your Dog’s Behavior



Shaping your dog’s behavior is essential in dog training.  The good thing about working with and training dogs is that they are pliable and constantly willing to learn and change their behavior if you learn to employ the right principles!


Shaping as defined in psychology is a process in which a long term goal is broken down into a series of gradual steps or intermediate goals, starting with simple easily performed tasks and gradually progressing to more complex and difficult behaviors.  For instance we don’t normally start off running a marathon after a period of inactivity; and likewise people don’t start playing the piano by playing Chopin, Beethoven or Mozart.  Complex behaviors must be chained.


This is what I love about positive reinforcement training, and why it is so easy for us to shape our dogs into exactly what we want (within reason you can’t change personality just behavior!)


Recently there was quite a debate on our message boards!  I love a good debate, it institutes thought on everyone’s part about how dog training works in general, how it applies to them as an individual how it applies to the “masses” in general.  As a matter of fact it can all be different!  Different takes on different theories make a person a good dog trainer, or at least a good dog trainer for their dog.  Dogs are equally as different as their owners!


Almost 20 years ago when I began dog training I was under the impression that all dogs should respond the same and behave the same for their owners.  Phrases like “All dogs should be kept off of furniture”, and “All dogs should undergo obedience training classes” were common.  But I soon realized that different people wanted different traits in their dogs.  Some people (usually with smaller dogs) accept jumping up on them and encourage sitting in their laps, and some people with bigger dogs don’t want their dogs to jump on them or get into their laps.  Each side is welcome to their interpretation and what they desire in their pets.  Not every person wants to compete for obedience titles either!



Thank you to (PHOTO BY GLENN ASAKAWA/DENVER POST STAFF)

Some dogs herd, some wrangle rodents, some hunt, some are police dogs, some are just pets and others serve their people as working Assistance Dogs.  There are about as many uses for dogs as there are dogs and just as many ways to train them.


The thing about dog training is that it is dynamic and usually always changing.  When they are pups we usually teach them the basics like sit and down but as we progress through training we shape the ultimate behavior we want.  At first sit just meant to put his butt on the ground, later it may mean to sit and stay for two minutes or more.  It may come under the distraction of running sheep or fleeing fugitive.  Ultimately we “shape” what we need in our dogs by “uping the ante” or changing our expectations.


What is nice about dogs (as in difference to some of us who are older and stuck in our ways) is that they are usually always happy to learn and modify their behavior, provided we are asking in a fun and exciting way.  Their behavior is easily shaped by either using positive reinforcement to shape the new behavior or ignoring behaviors and never rewarding them again.


Shaping new behavior is quite simple, you basically teach your dog what your expectations are for the new behavior.  For example; I eventually drop “stay” from my obedience routine i.e. when I tell you “Down” stay is implied unless I tell you otherwise (I do realize some of you will disagree).  So after learning “Down” and “Stay” I begin to shape my new “Down with an implied Stay”.  This just helps me give one less command when I am competing and teaches my dog to pay attention.


Like new behaviors associated with the same command are simple to teach, so is the extinguishing of previous behavior that you never want to see again, although it sometimes takes a little longer and isn’t quite as fun it is usually quite effective.  The key is to NEVER reward the behavior again, typically (as long as the behavior is not self rewarding; i.e. stealing food or essential to life; laying down) behavior that is not rewarded goes away.


My dogs retrieve, because I like it and I intermittently reward and reinforce it.  This intermittent reinforcement keeps the behavior strong.  However if I NEVER wanted my dogs to pick up anything that I drop again, I would never reward the behavior again.  Simply ignoring a behavior is often enough to stop it from occurring.  If there is no praise and no reward there is no reason to continue the behavior itself!


Both of these tactics shape your dog’s behavior.  Knowing that ask yourself how often you stop reinforcing good behavior all together?  This is often when we see dogs that simply stop listening to commands they once knew…there is no longer a reason to behave in a certain way.


Use these procedures to shape your dog into the dog of your dreams!  And, when you notice your dog is no longer listening ask yourself what might be going on in your relationship, what behavior are you rewarding or what behavior have you stopped rewarding?


Good luck and have fun training with your dog!


***http://www.thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/shaping-dogs-behavior/  


June 16th, 2011 by Minette





Hello!  I am a follower of Annablog & I also have a great interest in Dr.Jean Dodd’s research on vaccines.  I have taken this post from another BLOG, but you can go to Dr Jean Dodds & find a lot of information.  You should ALWAYS make sure you are making an informed decsion when it comes to vaccines, flea & tick, heartworm & more.


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Dr. Jean Dodd’s NEW vaccine protocol – PERMISSION TO CROSSPOST




          Dr. W. Jean Dodd’s vaccination protocol is now being adopted by ALL  27 North American veterinary schools. I highly recommend that you read  this. Copy and save it to your files. Print it and pass it out at dog  fairs, cat shows, kennel club meetings, dog parks, give a copy to your veterinarian and groomer, etc., etc. Get the word out.

Hi everyone…. THIS is wonderful news, that the veterinary schools are  now going to be teaching that over-vaccination of pets (once a year  “boosters”) is only not necessary, but in some cases can be harmful or  deadly! It has information for both dogs and cats. There still is an  ongoing study regarding the Rabies vaccine. Most states now allow  (reluctantly) 3 year Rabies, but the study is collecting data on whether  or not even that may be too much. They are looking at 8 or 10 year  Rabies!

I hope you all stop having yearly boosters for your pets. If you’re  concerned with immune levels, have the vet run a Titer test. THEN and  only then, if the levels are below acceptable, should you have a  booster. After all, when is the last time you had a “booster” for  smallpox, or whooping cough, or anything else you had shots for as a  child? Immune systems work the same in all mammals, and the concept that  pets have to have yearly shots doesn’t make any more sense than if you  had have shots every year. If mammal¢s immune systems were that weak in  fending off these things, all of them, us included, would have been  extinct years ago!

VACCINATION NEWS FLASH
I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North  America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating  dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics.  Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting  vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs  those concerned about potential side effects.



Politics, traditions 20 or the doctor’s economic well being should not be a factor in medical decision.

NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY
“Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified  live virus (MLV) vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces an  immunity which is good for the life of the pet (i.e: canine distemper,  parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later,  the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the  second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not  “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.”



Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they  subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and  immune-mediated hemolytic anemia. “There is no scientific documentation  to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.”  Puppies receive antibodies through their mother’s milk. This natural  protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be  vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the  vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6  weeks will, however, delay the timing of the -first highly effective  vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system. A series of  vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up  to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of  age (usually at 1 year 4 months) will provide lifetime immunity.

CURRENT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DOGS
Distemper & Parvo *”According to Dr. Schultz, AVMA, 8-15-95, when a  vaccinations series given at 2, 3 & 4 months and again at 1 year  with MLV, puppies and kitten program memory cells that survive for life,  providing lifelong immunity.” Dr. Carmichael at Cornell and Dr. Schultz  has studies showing immunity against challenge at 2-10 years for canine  distemper & 4 years for parvovirus. Studies for longer duration are  pending. “There are no new strains of parvovirus as one manufacturer  would like to suggest. Parvovirus vaccination provides cross immunity  for all types.” Hepatitis (Adenovirus) is one of the agents known to be a  cause of kennel cough. Only vaccines with CAV-2 should be used as CAV-1  vaccines carry the risk of “hepatitis blue-eye” reactions & kidney  damage.



*Bordetella Parainfluenza: Commonly called “Kennel cough”. Recommended only for those dogs boarded, groomed, taken to dog shows, or  for any reason housed where exposed to a lot of dogs. The intranasal  vaccine provides more complete and more rapid onset of immunity with  less chance of reaction. Immunity requires 72 hours and does not protect  from every cause of kennel cough. Immunity is of short duration (4 to 6  months).*

*RABIES – There have been no reported cases of rabid dogs or cats in  Harris, Montgomery or Ft. Bend Counties [ Texas ] but there have been  rabid skunks and bats so the potential exists. It is a killed vaccine  and must be given every year.

*Lyme disease-Lyme disease is a tick born disease which can cause  lameness, kidney failure and heart disease in dogs. Ticks can also  transmit the disease to humans. The original Ft. Dodge killed bacteria  has proven to be the most effective vaccine. Lyme disease prevention  should emphasize early removal of ticks. Amitraz collars are more  effective than Top Spot, as amitraz paralyzes the tick’s mouthparts  preventing transmission of disease.

**VACCINATIONS NOT RECOMMENDED* *
Multiple components in vaccines compete with each other for the immune  system and result in lesser immunity for each individual disease as well  as increasing the risk of a reaction. Canine Corona Virus is only a  disease of puppies. It is rare, self limiting (dogs get well in 3 days  without treatment). Cornell & Texas A&M have only diagnosed one  case each in the last 7 years. Corona virus does not cause disease in  adult dogs.*
*Leptospirosis vaccine is a common cause of adverse reactions in dogs.  Most of the clinical cases of lepto reported in dogs in the US are  caused by serovaars (or types) grippotyphosa and bratsilvia. The  vaccines contain different serovaars eanicola and ictohemorrhagica.  Cross protection is not provided and protection is short lived . Lepto  vaccine is immuno-supressive to puppies less than 16 weeks.


NEW DEVELOPMENTS:
Giardia is the most common intestinal parasite of humans in North  America , 30% or more of all dogs & cats are infected with giardia.  It has now been demonstrated that humans can transmit giardia to dogs  & cats and vice versa.*



Heartworm preventative must be given year-round in Houston .

*VACCINES BADLY NEEDED
New vaccines in development include: Feline Immunodeficiency Virus and  cat scratch fever vaccine for cats and Ehrlichia [one of the other tick  diseases, much worse than Lyme] for dogs.


THE VIEW FROM THE TRENCHES; BUSINESS ASPECTS
Most vets recommend annual boosters and most kennel operators require  them. For years, the pricing structure of vets has misled clients into  thinking that the inherent value of an annual o ffice visit was in the  “shots”. They failed to emphasize the importance of a physical exam for  early detection of treatable diseases. It is my hope that you will  continue to require Rabies & Kennel cough and emphasize the  importance of a recent vet exam. I also hope you will accept the new  protocols and honor these pets as currently vaccinated. Those in the  boarding business, who will honor the new vaccine facilities, are  reluctant to change.


CONCLUSION
Dogs & cats no longer need to be vaccinated against distemper,  parvo, & feline leukemia every year. Once the initial series of  puppy or kitten vaccinations and first annual vaccinations are  completed, immunity from MLV vaccines persists for life. It has been  shown that cats over 1 year of age are immune to Feline Leukemia whether  they have been vaccinated or not.



Imagine the money you will save, not to mention fewer risks from side  risk of mediated hemolytic anemia and allergic reactions are r educed by  less frequent use of vaccines as well as by avoiding unnecessary  vaccines such as K-9 Corona virus and chlamydia for cats, as well as  ineffective vaccines such as Leptospirosis and FIP. Intranasal vaccine  for Rhiotracheitis and Calici virus, two upper respiratory viruses of  cats provide more complete protection than injectable vaccines with less  risk of serious reactions.

The AAHA and all 27 veterinary schools of North America are our biggest endorsement for these new protocols.*

*Dr. Bob Rogers*


Please consider as current on all vaccinations for boarding purposes.
DOGS Initial series of puppy vaccines
1. Distemper, hepatitis, parvo, parinfluenze – 3 sets one month apart
concluding at 16 weeks of age.*
2. Rabies at 16 weeks of age (later is better)
3. Bordetella within last 4-6 months


First annual (usually at 1 year and 4 months of age)*
1. DHP, Parvo, Rabies
2. Bordetella within last 4-6 months 2 years or older


1. Rabies within last year
2. Bordetella within last 4-6 months
3. DHP & Parvo given anytime over 6 months of age, but not
necessarily within the last year.


Recommended: Physical exam for transmissible diseases and health risks.


CATS Initial kitten series
1. Distemper [PLP], Rhino Calicivirus, Feline Leukemia Vaccine – 3 sets
given one month apart concluding at 16 weeks.
2. Rabies at 16 weeks


First Annual [usually at 1 year and 4 months of age]
1. Distemper (PLP), Rhino Calicivirus, Rabies 2 years or older


1. Rabies within the last year
2. Rhino Calicivirus within last year
3. Distemper and FelV given any time after 6 months of age, but not
necessarily with the last year.
Recommended: Physical exam, FeLV/FIV testing, fecal exam for giardia.







  • Bravo! is recalling its Bravo! Pig Ears Chews in the 50-count bulk box of oven-roasted pig ears because they could be contaminated with salmonella, the FDA said. So far the company hasn’t received any reports of either pets or people being sickened from the chews. Included in the recall are the boxes of chews with the product code 75-121, Lot 12-06-10. The dog chews were sold on the East and West Coasts between January 1, 2011, and February 28, 2011. Consumers should return the chews to the store for a refund. Call the company at (866) 922-9222 weekdays between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.




In my humble opinion, the “Leave It” command is one of the most important things you can teach your dog! There are just some commands that may someday be invaluable in saving your dog’s life. Coming when called and leaving things on command could potentially be lifesaving.


Imagine you are standing in the kitchen getting your morning prescription medications together for the day, when you drop a couple of pills. What happens if your dog is typically a “Hoover” (floor vacuum-er)? Most human medications can be fatal for your pet. Even Tylenol is lethal for dogs and cats. That moment of panic when pills spill on the floor can be lessened if you teach your dog the “Leave It” command.


When I was training Service Dogs with an organization in Denver, CO I was told “Leave It” meant; do not touch, eat, or even look at the object and that definition has stuck with me. I think some people think it’s okay to at least look at a “Leave It” object but I think that can add difficulty to an already difficult proposal.


A “Leave It” means to completely ignore whatever the item or distraction is from a pill or a hot dog dropped on the floor, to a skateboarder flying past; Leave It means LEAVE IT!


So How Do You Teach “Leave It”?




This is a “Leave It” at its best!



What You Will Need


•Great Treats•Mediocre Treats or Dog Food •A Cheap Canvas 2 Pocket Tool Belt •A Leash •A Clicker •Lots of Patience!


Getting Started


Go and get your dog and put him on a leash and take him to a secluded private place that you can train together. This command needs your full attention at first while he is learning!


I like to use a 2 pocket tool belt (just the cheap canvas kind) for this training. I put my GREAT treats in one side and my mediocre treats or dog food in the other. Utilizing this tool makes it easier for me to access the right treat for the right response.


Keep the leash tight as you take a couple of mediocre treats out and place them on the floor out of your dog’s reach. Make sure he sees you put the treats down and restrict his access to the treats. Do not pop on the leash or correct him, let him strain for the treats but tell him “Leave It”.


Ready your clicker! At first he should look at and strain himself toward the treat, but soon he will get frustrated that he cannot reach them and he will turn and look away from the treats and toward you because he is discouraged. At that moment when he turns and looks away from the treats click and reward him with the GREAT treat!


If he continues to look at you, you can again praise and give a mediocre reward.


Now touch the mediocre treats that are on the floor again or pick them up and put them down again, to get him interested in them once again. As he looks at them, tell him “Leave It” and wait until he ignores them and looks toward you; click and jackpot him for a correct response.


Continue playing this game until he is hardly focused or not focused at all on the mediocre treats.


Once he has grasped the concept, you can move the mediocre treats closer to your dog. Click and jackpot for a good response and continue to try to deny him access to the treats. This may take several sessions and mastery of this command could take much longer, be patient!


Move them closer and closer until he pays no attention at all. He should now realize the GREAT treats come from you, not the floor and that “Leave It” means he will get a better reward if he listens.


Now, you may begin to use better and better treats as your “Leave It” distraction. Until he has completely given up trying to get the “Leave It” treat make the reward that comes from you better than the one you are using as a distraction.


Now that he is completely ignoring the treats you put down, you can use the same treat. He should realize the best in life comes from you not from the floor, or anywhere else.


Next tell him “Leave It” as you hold a treat in one hand. Click and reward with the opposite hand for a good response. He should be able to leave items you are eating or carrying as well as things on the floor.


Thanks to the Fun Times Guide.com for the photo Now that this game is fun, you can employ the help of family members and friends by having them try to give him a treat but then telling him to “Leave It”. If he is really good, have them toss treats at him in an attempt to get him to make a mistake. This can help for those of you who are afraid your dog may be at risk from poisoning.


Also proof this behavior by putting food on his feet or up his arms. He should be able to ignore any distraction at this point and he should be having a good time knowing that the reward from you will be greater than anything tossed to him or stacked on him!


This should be fun! You are not scaring him from the distraction, you are simply teaching him that YOU are better than anything else. If you employ scare tactics you will likely end up with a dog that only listens while you are right next to him. If however he thinks this is a game and you might be right around the corner with a game or a wonderful treat, he is much more likely to be successful!


Now go have some fun with your dog! This is a great party trick, and essential for safety!


**taken from thedogtrainingsecret.com***




I love Dogster.com & this is my most recent update from them:


If your puppy has stopped chewing shoes and diving for that piece of cheese, you may have let your guard down. If so, it’s likely that shoes are suddenly getting strewn across the floor, the trash is piling up more than it was, and your puppy is once again pushing against your leg at dinner for some tidbits. This occurs not because your puppy has forgotten his behavior training but because he’s seen that he can start to get away with things, inch by inch.


A dog does not have the ability to be manipulative but he is driven by instinct and he probably thinks, “Hey, the rules have changed! And in my favor!” Your puppy isn’t really rebelling – he’s seizing the opportunity to do what comes naturally. You may not realize just how far he’s gotten on this quest until there are many bad childhood habits back in place. The most common way we let our guard down is to start feeding puppy while cooking or at the table. From here it’s a downward spiral toward your puppy gaining that Alpha crown. Luckily, it’s easy to reinforce good behavior and stop these habits before they become, well, habits.


Common Bad Habits and What to Do


Begging – The first thing to do is to stop feeding your puppy people food, even as treats or as an addition to his food. Once he realizes that is not part of his diet, it makes stopping the begging easier. Then, when he begs, simply ignore him. He’ll give up and realize the action is fruitless. Make sure no one breaks the no-people-food rule. Eventually, you can add pieces of cooked chicken back into his diet if he does not start the begging again.


Chasing the Cat – A puppy’s prey drive is very strong, especially in herding and sight hound breeds, and the cat is often on the wrong end of the stick. Constant correction is necessary to break this habit again. Whenever your puppy starts chasing the cat, or another dog or your toddler, make a loud noise such as shaking a can full of coins. Say “No Chase!” firmly and shake again if he continues.


Chewing – The simplest way to avoid this is to keep everything put away but we want to break the habit as well. Again, a loud noise followed by “No Chew!” is effective. If your puppy won’t stop, gently grab him by the scruff and say “Give,” pulling the object from his mouth.


Trash Divers – It is also simple to prevent this from happening by having covered trash cans and emptying them often. Even when you break your puppy from this habit, do keep the trash out of reach as there can be dangerous items in it. To break the habit, leave the house with your puppy in the kitchen and a trash can nearby. Watch through a window and when he touches the can, rush back in shouting “No Trash!” Leave again and watch again and reenter if he’s persistent.


Jumping on People – This can be a tough one to break even if your puppy knew not to do it previously. The best correction for a medium to large dog is to lift your knee into his chest as he jumps and firmly say “No Jump!” This should be a gentle movement. For smaller dogs, you can gently move them back with your foot and say “No Jump!” If you don’t correct your puppy’s bad habits as soon as you see them reemerge, it will get increasingly difficult to change them. To prevent these habits from coming back again, keep up your training and be on the lookout for any bad behavior.


Don’t let it go because you’re tired or don’t have time. It will take much more time later on if you do.






Remmy & Molly



I think he is absolutely STUNNING!  and you can really see how he has held his RED coloring!


Remington is a Standard Australian Labradoodle with excellent lines and has passed all of his breeding testing, thus far.  Still waiting for him to get old enough or a few more, but we don’t expect any suprises, the main tests & then some are already completed.


Remmy has a fantasic coat, a luxuriously soft wavy fleece coat and a fantastic temperment.  He’s also sharp as a whip!  His Guardian Families fantasic & has taught him so much!  most of the training was done by their oldest daughter, a pre-teen I might add!  She definately is his girl.


I think every dog picks a person, one they love the best and are most loyal too, She is Remmy’s.  And you can see the love in this picture.


Thank you to Remmy’s Guardian Family for going the extra mile!  I can’t wait to see the babies this guy produces!!!


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